High Water-

Cable to the top of Clay Bank

Water Conditions:  One to four units running.

When water is being let out of the dam at Table Rock, depths and current speed vary depending on how much water is being let loose.  Depths can vary from 8 to 15 feet in some places.  Speed of current depends on hundreds on combinations; how fast the operators are raising the levels, from what level they started at, how much water is already in the pool.....  know this:  Trout move according to conditions.  Learn the movements in conjunction to the water levels and speeds and you'll be successful in any condition.

Layout:   The bottom of the lake does not change just because the complexion of the water levels change- the holes and high spots are still there.  What changes is the reaction on the water as it moves over the holes and high spots and how the trout react to the change.

What to look for:    #1  Great area to start.  I always catch real nice rainbows right at the cable.... but don't give in to the temptation to throw up above the line- you aren't suppose to do that and our agents like to sit and watch people with their binoculars.  They won't be real picky but if someone abuses it too much- they'll say something.  There are big chunk rocks in the first 200 yards of this area and trout love to hold behind them waiting for food to rush by.  Get a white jig down quick and you'll hook a nice one.  #2  As the channel swings away from the first island, this gravel bar will hold trout in current.  There's no structure to hold them but they do hold there surprisingly.  Just above the trees on the island is a cut that runs from the south side (behind the island) to the main channel, creating a mini-island above the trees (toward the dam side).  Trout hold in this cuts by the dozens, especially when the water has run consistently for a time (days).  #3  This area behind the island is great when the water has been running consistently for days.  Trout will stack in there because they are bothered as much by boats and anglers.  There's a good food base because when the water is off, there is standing water back there so it does house bugs.  #4  Just above #3 outlet is a deep pocket that will hold trout, especially browns.  Also the mouth of #3 outlet will hold trout, in the slack water, the crease and in the current.  There are small trenches where #3 runs that lead to the main channel where trout can hold in out from the mouth.  #5  This is another hole- actually it's the rebar hole.  It's stuck in behind the backside of the island so trout will hold there for several reasons.... it's deep and the current isn't very strong there.  It is a little hard to fish because the water really swirls around there- it's hard to get a lure or fly down.  #6  This is another drop-off where a big population of trout will sit and wait on food.  The top is gravel and the hole is gravel.  The ridge runs from close to the north bank past the middle of the lake.  #7 is a sharp, cut bank that always holds trout, especially browns.  It's at the end of some slack water that runs from #4 outlet (the stairs) downstream about 100 yards.

How to:  Fly Fishing...... In light to medium water flow, you can get away with using a medium weight rod- 6 wt. is good.  While drifting, use a strike indicator (fairly large because of the choppy water you'll probably encounter) and a weighted nymph or bead head fly-- fish the depth of the water you're fishing generally.  At times, you'll go over holes and bars so it's impossible to be just off the bottom at all times.  Set it at an average depth and be aware of the changes.  Even a 2-fly arraignment could be good- say a weighted #10 or #8 hare's ear and a #6 olive woolly below.  Use medium to heavy tippet, 5x to 3x (4.5 to 6 pound), and leader to match what technique you'll use.  You drift this in different areas- on the sides and through the middle.  Find where trout are holding and drift that area over and over.

In heavier water flows, take out a heavier rod- 7 to 8 wt- and tie on a double bunny, a big zonker, streamer or just a big, ugly woolly bigger- white with lots of shinny stuff if there's shad in the water, olive or brown in the spring and summer.  Throw towards the banks, let it sink about 4 to 5 feet and strip hard, pausing every couple of strips.  Pay close attention to the pauses and try to keep the slack out of the line.  Trout will hit when the bait is drifting or sinking- when it's most defenseless.

Eddies always hold trout when the water is running.... the trick is to present something they'll be interested in.  In the winter when the shad are flowing, this is pretty easy.  All you have to do is get something down, doesn't have to be too deep under the surface and use white or gray.  While sitting at the top of an eddy, throw the fly out in the current and let it  flow downstream till it starts to enter the slack water- then start to strip.  Try different speeds until you find out if they like an aggressive or slow strip.  Always look for rising trout in eddies.  Swing emergers or soft hackles to them or midge patterns.

           Spin Fishing...... Lots of way to drift fish using spin equipment, but the key is to get something to the bottom and keep it there.  Most of these fish stay close to the bottom when the water is running to stay out of the current.  They do move, and sometimes all the way to the surface to take something but for the best presentation- put the lure right in front of their face- you'll catch more fish that way.

Drifting along in the current is a Lake Taneycomo trade-mark.  But drifting power bait or night crawlers is a no-no up here.  But the trout don't mind.... they are content to hit other things like small spoons, jigs or crank baits just as well.  And you even can use your drift rigs too!  Tie on a F-5 silver/black rapala where your hook would go on a drift rig and bump it along the bottom just like you do a salmon egg.  Or even a flat fish- anything that floats so it doesn't catch the bottom as easy.  The downside to this is when you get snagged and lose a lure, it's alittle more expensive than losing a hook.

Drifting jigs is a long time technique of mine and many others who fish here.  It's almost as easy as throwing the jig out and letting it drag behind the boat, bumping the bottom.  But you'll lose alot of jigs if you don't work it alittle.  Using the correct jig weight is important.  When there is moderate water flowing, use a 1/16th ounce jig.  If they are running alot of water, go to a 1/18th ounce jig.  If you have trouble losing jigs on the bottom, go with a lighter jig and be more patient, letting it get to the bottom.  When you feel the bottom, lift the rod tip and crank once or twice.  But be aware of the jig while it's dropping... when you first throw it out and after you jig it up.  A trout will take the jig when it's falling- 9 of 10 times.  Don't be scared to set the hook hard when fishing this way.  Alot of times the turbulence will create slack in your line and you won't even know it.  Setting the hook hard will insure a good hook set.  Casting along the banks in slack water will produce lots of strikes, especially if the water has been running consistently and the trout are holding in that slack water.  Again, they will hit the jig on the first drop.

Work spoons, like cleos and kastmasters the same way as jigs.  Work them up and down as you drift.  Another way to work spoons is to hold yourself in the current with a trolling motor (so the current is going faster than your boat) and throw at a 45 degrees downstream angle.  Let the spoon drift or swing behind the boat, lifting your rod tip and keeping the spoon from going all the way to the bottom.  After it gets directly downstream, jig it a couple of more times and reel it in and try again.  You'll get the strike on the swing- more towards the end of the swing.

Best Conditions:  Low light and slight wind.
 
 

Copyright:  2003  Lilleys' Landing Resort, BIMS, Branson, Missouri
Phil Lilley, Jim Turner