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 Lake
Taneycomo has many characteristics. She
was created a river, but men made her a
lake, building a dam at her head -- Table
Rock -- and a dam at her tail -- Powersite.
Both dams use water to power big generators,
creating electricity. Thus Taney can still
flow like a river with strong current
cutting channels and piling up gravel bars
in her upper end. But she also can sit still
like a lake with a little current felt at
the headwater.
The U.S. Army Corps of Engineers
manages the dam facility. It throws the
switches. The Southwest Power Administration
coordinates and brokers the power generated
by a grid of dams and coal burning plants in
several Midwestern states. These agencies
together consider three priorities when
managing water:
1. Flood Control
2. Power Demand
3. Recreation (boating and fishing)
And in that order are they ranked.
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Schedules?
When are “they” going to run water? No one
knows for sure, but many times you can
give it
a good guess. Look at the pattern. Look at
the lake levels- Table Rock and Beaver. If
the lakes
are high (above power pool levels) and we’re
in a rainy season with rain in the forecast,
you
 can
bet they will
run water. If
it’s real hot or real cold, there’s a good
chance they will run water.
Other
considerations—how have they been running
water? Trends can be relied upon to make
that good guess. If they are running a
little water in the afternoons from 3-6 pm
and
there’s no major weather changes, you can
bet they will continue this trend until the
weekend. There’s less power demand on
weekends so chances are trends will
change—less water may run
Saturdays and Sundays unless it’s extremely
hot or cold and they need to continue
generation because of power demand. The same
is true for high water conditions. |
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Boating
When operating a boat on this lake when
the water is running, you must give the
current proper respect. When drifting, be
aware of obstacles next to shore such as
over-hanging and fallen trees and flooded
islands with trees. Do not tie up to
anything in fast, moving water or use an
anchor in moving water at all! Every year,
boats are pulle d
under while dragging anchors in current to
keep their boats straight. An anchor hangs
up on the bottom, pulling the boat under the
surface of the water at the point where the
anchor rope is attached. The boat fills with
water so fast that often the operator
doesn't have time to cut the anchor rope.
Don't use anchors in moving water!
Shallow gravel bars can make Lake
Taneycomo rough on motor propellers. When
the water is off, when no water is passing
though the generators, the lake stabilizes
at its normal level. If this level seems
low, it is. Upstream from Branson there are
several bad spots. Gravel bars just below
Cooper Creek, at Short Creek and Fall Creek
to mention a few. Above Fall Creek, it just
gets shallow!! The closer to the dam you
travel, the shallower it gets. When boating,
you must be aware of these places or you
will hit bottom and damage your motor. Stop
and get a good lake map at one of the
resorts or marinas on the lake. Of course,
Lilleys’ Landing has one of the best maps
around -- and they’re free.
Courtesy and safe boating – The
number one complaint visitors have when
boating on Taney is rude and inconsiderate
boaters. The rules of thumb are, be nice,
don’t get in a hurry, use common sen se.
And one of my pet peeves… look behind you
and observe the wake you’re throwing. Even
if you’re traveling slowly you could be
throwing the biggest wake. Wakes can injure
people by throwing them into the water or
within the boat. Wakes can swamp a small
boat, capsizing it and sending people into
the icy water.
Boating License- Beginning January 1, 2005,
every person born after January 1, 1984, who
operates a vessel on Missouri lakes shall
possess, on the vessel, a boating safety
identification card issued by the Missouri
State Water Patrol (along with a valid photo
ID). If you fall into the required age range
and are a resident of Missouri, you will
need to obtain a Missouri certification
card. If you are a resident of Missouri but
do not fall into the age range, you are not
required to have the Missouri card.
Remember, a vessel is every motorboat and
motorized watercraft including a personal
watercraft. See
http://www.boat-ed.com/mo/index.htm for
testing information. |
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Basic Trout
Fishing
Four main ingredients are needed for a
successful trout fishing trip:
1. Two- to four-pound line is a must
when using almost any kind of trout bait or
lures. There are a few exceptions. Bigger
crank baits like Rapalas and Rogues and
larger spoons and spinners require heavier
line such as six- or eight-pound test. The
line should be green or clear, not
incandescent or blue. Monofilament is good.
Fluorocarbon is ok. Braided line, I wouldn’t
recommend unless you’re tying on tippet.
2. A good ultra-light rod and reel is
the best. The rod should be five- to
seven-foot long with medium to light action.
The reel needs to be one that holds plenty
of line with a good drag system.
3. Small weights, hooks or lures are
important because hook size is critical.
Trout, especially rainbows, have small, soft
mouths. Numbers 6, 8 and 10 are average
sizes for any type of bait used. Short,
bronze hooks are recommended. Weights should
only be heavy enough for successful casting.
You won't be able to feel the trout bite if
there's too much weight.
4. Patience and a light hand complete
the presentation. Trout typically don’t
strike hard. They tend to pick at their food
like a little kid eating spinach. I’ve
witnessed rainbows taking a piece of worm in
their mouths only to blow it out and repeat
over and over. Or they will take the tip of
the worm and shake their head violently,
tearing it off the hook. Are they smart? It
seems so. But don’t give them too much
credit. Generally they are easy to catch.
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Bait
Fishing with no Water Running
T here
are several techniques to catch trout. One
of the most popular and easiest is bait
fishing. When the water is not moving, sit
in one spot, whether on the bank, on a dock
or in a boat. Throw your bait out, let it
sink to the bottom, and leave it there,
drawing in slack line after the bait hits
the bottom. Either hold the rod or set it
down until the line moves or the rod tip
jerks. Set the hook sharply, then reel.
Don't get into a hurry -- enjoy the fight.
That's what it's all about. It's a good idea
to have a net handy. Trout mouths are soft,
and the hook will tear out right at the edge
of your reach. When fishing from a boat, the
technique is basically the same. Anchor in a
good spot, throw out your line and let the
bait settle to the bottom. Wait for the
strike and set the hook.
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Bait
Fishing During Generation (moving water)
From the dock or bank, throw upstream using
a little more weight. Let the bait sink and
bump along the gravel bottom. Trout stay
close to the bottom, looking for food
drifting by. The strike will feel different
than the bumping, like a pull and bump. Set
the hook sharply --harder than still fishing
because t here
will be more slack in your line from the
current. One thing to remember: The harder
the water is running, the more weight you
will need to get to the bottom, but too much
weight will cause you to hang up more often.
When drifting, position your boat sideways
in the current. This allows everyone in the
boat to fish directly behind the boat and
causes fewer tangles. A drift rig is a
pre-made rig with about 36 inches of
four-pound line. A hook is tied to one end
and a weight tied to the other. A loop is
then tied towards the sinker side of the
middle. This is where the line from your rod
and reel is attached. We recommend using a
snap swivel. Drag the bait along the bottom
as before. The strike will feel the same but
a little different than the bumping with a
bump-pull-soft bump. It does take time and a
little experience to feel the difference in
a bite and the bottom.
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Live Bait
Choices
Years ago, the old standby baits were
salmon eggs, marshmallows and Velveeta
cheese you rolled into balls. Now the
premier choice is a scented bait called
Power Bait. The bait comes in several
different forms and many bright,
modeling-clay type colors. They're fished in
different ways. Eggs are used when driftin g
or sitting dead in the water. Nuggets and
dough-type bait are generally used when the
water is off. Power Bait floats off the
bottom, making it easier for the trout to
see and take. Power Bait can be used with
other baits, either as an attractant or to
float the baits off the bottom. Salmon eggs
are still a good bait but are just not used
as much. There are basically two kinds of
eggs, dry pack and oil pack. Dry-pack eggs
aren't packed with anything but the egg
itself. Dry eggs are used when still
fishing. Oil-pack eggs are packed in oil,
either scented or unscented. They are
generally larger and softer, and used for
drifting. Oil-pack eggs come in several
colors and in different scents; anise scent
is one of the most popular. Night crawlers
are an excellent bait and still fun for kids
of all ages. Use a #6 hook and a split-shot,
pinching the shot about 18 inches above the
hook. Use half a worm, hook it once or twice
in the "collar,” and let the worm hang off
both sides to make it look natural. Don't
worry about hiding the hook. It doesn't seem
to make any difference to the trout. Inject
the worm with air using a blow bottle. This
makes the worm float off the bottom, again
exposin g
the worm more quickly than if it were laying
on the bottom. When drifting or sitting
still, let the trout take the worm. Give it
some slack, letting the trout tighten the
line. Set the hook sharply and reel.
Minnows are other live bait used in
the winter, spring and summer months. Small
forage fish are a big part of a trout’s diet
in Lake Taneycomo. In the winter and/or
spring, thread-finned shad sometimes flow
from Table Rock Lake into Taneycomo and are
gulped up by waiting trout. Minnows are a
good substitute for shad and usually catch a
little nicer trout. Brown trout also tend to
target minnows more than any other bait. Use
a small hook, about an #8 or #10 and either
a drift rig or just a hook and split shot.
Hook the minnow in both lips or through the
eyes. Let the minnow bump the bottom or use
it under a float four- to five-feet deep.
When the minnow is taken, give some line by
dropping the rod tip toward the fish. Let
the trout gulp the minnow well into its
mouth before setting the hook. Remember, the
hook is in the head of the minnow and the
trout will take the minnow tail first.
Besides drifting, fishing minnows in eddies,
areas where water forms a pocket behind
trees or a point in the bank, can be
fruitful. You need to tie off above the eddy
and let the minnow dangle downstream in the
slack water. It’s imperative to let the
trout take it before setting the hook, or
you'll lose the bait
and miss the fish. When anchoring or tying
off, ALWAYS tie off from the very front of
the boat -- and even then, use caution.
Don’t anchor in swift current at all. Try to
anchor in the eddy where the water is slow.
Anchoring in swift current can cause the
boat to be pulled under in just a moment’s
notice. Several people have drowned in Lake
Taneycomo because an anchor was used
unwisely, swamping the boat.
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Artificial
Lure Choices
Jigs used to intimidate me! To look
at a jig and think you could really catch a
fish with one was pretty unbelievable, or it
was to me. The first time I used a marabou
jig (a feather or doll jig) was the first
summer we moved to Branson in 1983. A fellow
from Georgia showed me how to work a small
1/32-ounce, brown jig off the bluff bank
across the lake from our resort, and we
caught lots of rainbows. It really was
simple. Let the jig sink while paying close
attention to the feel of the line, watching
the line and rod tip. Lift the rod tip
fairly sharply usi ng
your wrist, make a couple of turns on the
reel and let the jig settle again. The
deeper the water you’re fishing, the longer
you let the jig sink. Here's the tricky
part. A trout will take the jig on the drop
90 percent of the time. It will feel like a
tap -- sometimes sharp, sometimes light --
or the line will go slack slightly before
hitting the bottom. Sometimes when you begin
to jig or lift the rod tip, the trout is
right there -- “Oh! Set the hook!!!”
Regardless, the strike will happen on the
drop, and the hook must be set quickly and
sharply. Tip: If the trout are biting
"short" or not getting the jig all the way
into their mouths, tear the tail of the jig
off bit by bit with your fingers until they
start taking the hook. Don’t cut the
feathers with scissors; the straight cut
won’t look natural. (If you bite them,
you’ll be tasting feathers all day. . .).
When the water is running, go to a heavier
jig -- 1/16, 3/32, 1/8-ounce. Trout will
usually hold near the bottom when there is
current but will come all the way to the
surface for food. For the best result s,
drop your lure to the bottom and keep it
there as much as possible. Working a jig off
the bottom can be harder in moving water
than in still water because you are dealing
with current and turbulence that turns and
twists your line. That’s the reason for the
heavier jig. You'll have a straighter line
from the tip of your rod to the jig, thus a
better feel for the strike with heavier
jigs.
“Jig-and-float” is a fun way to catch
trout. Using two- to four-pound line, run a
carrot float up your line and fish the jig
at four- to seven-feet deep, depending on
the condition you’re fishing. Tie a small
jig on the end. There are some pretty small
jigs out there, such as the micro jigs, sold
as small as 1/256-ounce. But the common
weights are 1/50, 1/80, 1/100 and
1/125-ounce. Common colors are white, brown,
olive, pink, ginger, sculpin (olive drab)
and black, as will as combinations of colors
-- black/yellow, orange/brown, gray/red,
sculpin/ginger, red/white and sculpin with
an orange head. You might have to pinch on a
small split-shot just below the float if
you’re having trouble casting. Place the
shot up against the float to avoid tangling.
There aren't any bad areas on Lake
Taneycomo to use this technique. The
ideal area is from the Branson bridges to
Table Rock Dam. Above Short Creek, look for
the edge of the channel and fish the
drop-off. This should be located close to
the middle of the lake. If the jig drags the
bottom, move the float down. Movement is
important — it make the jigs appear alive.
Wind creates a chop on the surface of the
water, which in turn, bobs the float and
moves the jig. If the water is smooth as
glass, twitch the floats every 5 to 10
seconds. The strike can be subtle or
obvious, but mostly subtle. It can be very
hard to see when the water is choppy. That’s
why you have to pay close attention to the
float and watch for it to tip up or dive
down. Set the hook hard and fast. Keep up
wit h
your line slack. You can’t set the hook when
you have too much slack between your rod tip
and the float.
With the water running this technique is
also good. Depth of water increases with
water flow, so the depth you fish the jig
will change. Fish as deep as your equipment
will allow. The longer the rod the deeper or
more line you can throw; it takes a long rod
to set the hook on this deeper rig.
Small spoons are another way to fool trout.
Little Cleos, Kastmasters, Buoant Spoons,
Super Dupers, Spin-A-Lures and Krocodile
are just a few of the brand names used for
trout. Spoons can be used either in still or
moving water. When there is no generation,
small spoons thrown over gravel bars and
retrieved slowly lure many trout. Working a
spoon slowly in deep water pools is anoth er
good technique. When the water is moving,
let the spoon settle near the bottom and
jerk it up, letting it flutter back towards
the bottom. The trout will strike as it
falls. I’ve even found that you can drift
Kastmasters on the bottom during
generation and surprisingly, they don’t hang
up very much. Best area to do this is from
the dam down to Fall Creek (trophy area).
Spinners, such as Rooster Tails, Mepps
and Panther Martins are great lures for
trout. Retrieve a light spinner steadily
through shallow water when water is off,
especially when you see trout "nipping” the
surface. Work eddies, where the current
swirls behind objects in the water's path,
with spinners, jerking and letting the
spinner move in the swell.
Then there are the always faithful crank
baits such as Rapala, Husky Jerk, Rouge,
Flatfish and Blue Fox. In still water, work
a flatfish in shallow water where trout are
feeding. In the morning and evenings when
light is low, throw a floating Rapala in
fairly deep to deep, channel water, retrieve
it quickly to drop it down, and then jerk it
as you retrieve. Try this—after getting it
down, stop it dead, jerk it and retrieve and
stop again. Both rainbows and browns will
follow the bait and
either hit it when it stops or just follow
it all the way to the boat without striking
but 9 of 10 times, they’ll strike it when
it’s dead in the water. This technique works
best when using suspending baits. Work bluff
banks and especially around underwater trees
and other structure—browns
hide during the day and come out at night
generally. Colors- silver, gold, rainbow
styles and bright, shiny colors. Don’t be
shy on size—go big. Seven to 13 inch baits
so exceptionally well on all size trout.
Just be sure to use heavy enough tackle to
throw such big baits. Line size isn’t as
important when throwing such big baits.
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